In 1980 my parents gave me an original Rubik's cube. I spent an entire weekend (note 1) figuring out how to solve it, and the next couple years refining and extending my algorithm for speed and flexibility. In the 1980s, cubes were extremely popular (note 2): enough so that people would frequently ask me to help them solve them, or teach them how to solve them on their own. My final racing algorithm (note 3) was fast but too complicated to easily learn.

I developed an entirely separate algorithm optimized for simplicity instead of speed. Teenaged twit that I was (note 4), I called it "the stupid person's algorithm" to distinguish it from my racing algorithm. I've long since forgotten the details of my racing algorithm (note5), and must now use "the stupid person's algorithm". A fitting consequence of my teenage hubris!

The algorithm is still quite simple and easy to learn (note 6). As cubes have come back into fashion I have decided to write it down for your amusement.

I will use the standard notation, which you can find described in detail here. The 26 (note 7) sub-cubes that make up standard Rubik's cube may be divided into three categories: centers, edges, and corners:

In my illustrations, I use the Western color scheme: The up (U) side is white, the right (R) side is red, the front (F) side is green, the left (L) side is orange, the back (B) side is blue, and the down (D) side is yellow (note8).

As a visual aide, faces that aren't relevant to a given step in the algorithm may be shown in grey, and faces that are relevant but unspecified may be shown in pink.

The algorithm has seven basic steps, which we'll cover in detail.

Enjoy! Please feel free to send corrections or comments to adam.greenblatt@gmail.com, thanks!

Thanks, also, to the fine folks at ruwix.com, referenced above. I used their lovely image generator to produce all of the .png files in this document.

Notes

1: By Saturday afternoon, I had figured out that the only way I was going to get anywhere was to "cheat" and disassemble the cube and reassemble it in the solved position. It is much easier to study the effect of a potentially useful sequence of moves if you perform them starting from the solved position. By Sunday night, I had a working algorithm that was breathtakingly slow -- it took hundreds of turns and ten or fifteen minutes. Mercifully the details of that algorithm are lost to posterity. (back)

2: It's hard to overstate just how popular cubes were in the early 1980s. Their popularity has waxed and waned since, but back then they were so popular that being able to solve one was almost enough for a hopeless geek such as myself to be considered socially acceptable, if not actually popular. (back)

3: My best times were just under 20 seconds, with 25 second times being typical. That's pathetically slow by today's standards, but pretty decent for the early 1980s. But with over a hundred separate sequences to memorize, it was far more complex than that presented above. (back)

4: I don't mean to imply that I'm not still a twit, but I like to delude myself into thinking that I've mellowed a little with age (back)

5: No doubt because I no longer spend quite so much time cubing. (back)

6: It is simpler than anything I had seen published elsewhere, though I have not made a comprehensive survey of the literature to see if that is still the case. In exchange for simplicity, you must sacrifice a certain amount of speed -- it typically takes me 60 or 70 seconds to solve a cube using this technique. Oh, how the mighty have fallen. (back)

7: The 27th sub-cube is hidden in the center, with no faces at all. I highly recommend disassembling the cube to ponder how it works mechanically; it is a beautiful mechanism. (back)

8: I learned on the original Japanese color scheme; to this day I still feel betrayed when I see a blue-white edge. (back)

9: In many but not all instances, you can avoid this situation by solving the middle edges in a different order. For example, if the red-green edge had ended up between the blue and orange centers, you could solve the blue-orange edge first, which would perforce push the red-green edge back to D/yellow side of the cube where it can be handled more efficiently. It is only when the red-green edge is in its correct location and flipped, as shown, that you must resort to using a temporary edge like this. (back)

10: If either one or three of the four bottom edges have their yellow faces down, then you cannot solve the cube: it has been incorrectly assembled. The mathematically inclined among you may enjoy proving that this is the case. The rest of you may take it on faith that the total number of flipped edges must be even. Intentionally "breaking" a cube by disassembling it just enough to flip a single edge or twist a single corner was a common practical joke. On a well-worn cube, you can do this one handed quite easily. There are actually twelve separate "universes" you can assemble a cube into (two for edge parity, times three for corner twist, times two for corner exchange), only one of which contains the "solved" cube. So if you assemble a cube at random, your odds of it being solvable are only 1 in 12. (back)

11: This sequence, if repeated three times, brings the edges back to where they were to begin with -- it is a "three cycle" of edges. So you could use the more efficient inverse sequence L'D'LD2L'D'L instead. (back)

12: Note that R'DRD2R'DR and L'DLD2L'DL are fundamentally the same sequence in terms of muscle memory -- you are just applying the sequence while holding the cube in a different orientation. (back)

13: Conversely, if at the end of any sequence you do not have a cross on all sides, you've probably made a mistake. Go back and fix the edges before proceeding. (back)

14: You may defer any concern for the orientation if you prefer, and take care of the orientation of all of the corners in the final step. But I find it is usually faster to place the white corners in their correct orientation at the same time as you are putting them in their correct positions. (back)

15: Try it on a solved cube! Then repeat it twice more to get back to the solved state. (back)

16: You could use it to set both the position and orientation, but having a dedicated orientation sequence, as we do below, is usually more convenient. (back)

17: If the white face is on the F/green side, you can do the analagous "mirror-image" eight turn sequence, which cycles the DFR, UFR (shown in pink) and UBR (shown in cyan) corners in a cycle: FDF'UFD'F'U'
There's a similar sequence you can do if the white face is on the D/yellow side, which is left as an exercise for the reader. These sequences are unnecessary, but will save you time getting the corner orientations fixed in the final step. (back)

18: The white-red-green and white-red-blue corners may not be in the correct orientation, for example you may have one of these:
That's OK, we'll fix the orientations in the final step. (back)

19: As before, the orientations on the white corners may not be correct. (back)

20: As before, any or all of these white corners may have incorrect orientations, here's an example showing all four sides:
(back)

21: These sequences are all the same as far as muscle memory goes, they're only written differently because we're holding the cube in a different orientation. (back)

22: As before, the red-green-yellow corner may not be twisted correctly, for example:
(back)

23: If this does not put all the corners in their correct positions, then you cannot solve the cube: it has been incorrectly assembled. See note 10. (back)

24: If you end up with one twisted corner, then you cannot solve the cube: it has been incorrectly assembled. See note 10. (back)